Inveraray & District Local History Society The Society Hon. President Alastair Campbell of Airds   Chairman Colin Stevenson   Vice Chairman Peter Fairweather   Secretary Dorothy Paterson email   tel:01499 302638 Treasurer Jack Dunagan   Committee Members Robert Rogerson OBE Peter Macintyre Gordon Jackson Klaus Muller   The Inveraray and District Local History Society meet in the Nicoll Hall on the first Tuesday of each month from October until April at 7.30 p.m. For futher information on the society please contact the secretary Dorothy Paterson. Below are some of the speakers we have had:- April 2004 Group learns about islands of Loch Awe A good attendance of members and guests turned out on April 6 to hear a talk by Lady McGrigor. Instead of the advertised topic of the Appin Murder, she chose to speak on the islands of Loch Awe and their castles and churches. The alteration did not disappoint the audience, who enjoyable an agreeable tour of the loch, illustrated by overheads made from Lady McGrigor's own photographs. Among the subjects mentioned were the battle at the Pass of Brander, when Robert the Bruce defeated the MacDougalls, leading to the Campbells being granted Fraoch Eilean castle; the church of Inishail with its sculptured stones and early cross; the magnificent castle of Innis Chonnell, seat of the Campbells before the building of Inveraray; and Caisteal na Nighinn Ruaidhe on Loch Avich, similar in style to Fincarn and Castle Sween. Lady McGrigor explained that these and other buildings of the 13th and 16th centuries showed the importance of Loch Awe as a through-route from the Atlantic to the centre of Scotland, requiring to be defended by its various owners. Thanks were expressed by Colin Hamilton and Jack Dunagan. The final meeting of the session and business meeting will be held on May 18 in Dunderave Castle at 7pm. March 2004 Patrick MacKellar of Maam Mr Duncan Beaton spoke about Colonel Patrick MacKellar, perhaps the most distinguished, though now largely forgotten, member of his family. A sept of the Campbells, they spread from Lochaweside to Glen Shira. Patrick was the son of John, the last of them to be head tenant of Maam, and was born about 1717. Probably through the influence of the Second Duke of Argyll he became a clerk at Woolwich Arsenal and later an army engineer. Although he served in various parts of the world (and took part in the famous siege of Quebec in 1759), most of his career was spent in Minorca. From 1763 until his death in 1778 he was engaged in rebuilding and fortifying the harbour at Mahon. Much of this survives though the barracks have been altered to houses. In 2002, the bicentenary of the return of Minorca from Britain to Spain, a plaque was erected in his memory in the main street of El Castell, as the harbour area is still known. The festival was accompanied by music from a British army band, and by local traditional dancing in remarkably tartan-like costumes (though any Scottish connection is unproven). Mr Beaton remarked that the people of El Castell were anxious to increase their knowledge of and establish links with the Inveraray area. The society felt this should be commended to the authorities here. October 2003 Brief history of An Common Gwdhealach We began the 2003-04 session with an enthusiastic and heartfelt `brief history of An Commun Gaidhealach (ACG)' by Peter Macintyre, former chairman of ACG. He outlined the Irish missionaries' introduction of Gaelic, distinguishing the isolated Western from `Anglo-Saxon' Scotland. The `1745' weakened both language and culture, but paradoxically the out-flow of Gaels introduced Gaelic speakers to Scottish and English cities. With growing interest in Gaelic culture and language from the 1870s, it was the Highland/Gaelic societies, with their relatively wealthy, influential and educated members which in the 1880s fostered a new enthusiasm for Gaelic. The ACG was formed in Oban in 1891 and subsequently music festivals were held. but they lacked support and it was the Welsh Eisteddfod, with its celebration of music and language, which inspired the successful `Mod' (an Anglo Saxon word!). From the minutes of the ACG the speaker drew much of interest: railways were essential for meetings; early Mods were usually in Glasgow, not exactly the heart of Gaeldom; there were constant money troubles. More seriously, on the eve of WWI there was a disagreement over objectives: would music save the language? By 1918 enthusiasts were placing their faith in the Education Act facilitating Gaelic in schools and it appeared on the new radio in 1923. A Gaelic Youth League was formed and summer camps were introduced. After 1945 the Mod really took off, with 100 branches. But again there were troubles. The `youngsters' apparently took over some of the ideas and functions of the ACG and left it with the Mod. But the `youngsters' had no money; while the music could not, apparently, save the language. The talk ended on a rather sad note: the Mod is undoubtedly popular, but the language is not. There were 280,000 Gaelic speakers in 1891, 53,000 now. Dr Gordon Jackson of the society suspects that the answer to this paradox lies not in linguistic and musical history, but in economic and social history. The talk was well received and brought a lively discussion and sharing of reminiscences with Gaelic speakers in the audiences. The next meeting will be on November 4, when James Beaton, librarian of the Royal College of Physicians and Surgeons of Glasgow will talk about `Some local doctors'. A considerable audience of members and guests turned out on Tuesday 1st.April 2003 to hear readings from the recent publication, Cradle of the Scots: An Argyll Anthology. These were given by the three editors, Brian Osborne, Ronald Armstrong and Ronald Renton. From the large number of entries in the book, they concentrated on those dealing with Lorn and Mid Argyll. Poetry was well represented, beginning with the earliest item, a Latin poem by St Columbia, and ending with the most recent, a poem by George Campbell Hay. Another was a love lyric by Isobel Countess of Argyll from the early sixteenth-century Book of the Dean of Lismore. Writers of fiction included Sir Walter Scott, Tobias Smollett and memorably, Neil Munro with Para Handy's Treasure Trove (a whale at Tobermory). Most however were from actual books on Inveraray and Kilchurn Castle, Sir Walter Scott (again) on Skerry-Vore and HB Morton on Oban. A warm vote of thanks was proposed by Dorothy Paterson. She also took the opportunity to thank the retiring chairman, Klaus Muller, for his services, as he will not be present at the AGM on May 13. The summer outing will be to the Falkirk Wheel on May 20. Anyone interested should contact Jack Dunagan on 01546 886664. Tuesday March 4 2003 saw a lecture on the boundaries of Dalriada by Doctor David Dorran. An astrophysicist by profession, but an amateur archaeologist by enthusiasm, Doctor Dorran has been for some years engaged in tracing the boundary between the ancient kingdoms of Strathclyde, based at Dumbarton, and Dalriada, based at Dunadd. Following the work of Betty Rennie, he used placenames of topography, of later boundaries and of actual monuments - the latter discovered in tireless walking up hills and over moors. The suggested line runs from Toward Point up the west side of Cowal to Glenbranter, then by a series of high, defensible positions, (Hell's Glen, the Rest, Ben line, the top of Loch Sloy), to pass between Glen Fyne and Loch Lomond. Doctor Dorran then moved north to the southern end of the boundary between Picts and Scots, which is called in many sources Drumalbin, the ridge of Alba. The standard identification of this is unsatisfactory, and Doctor Dorran suggests that it is in fact a fairly short ridge running across Glen Lochy, a major route between the two kingdoms. It is clearly identifiable at or near the modern country boundary west of Tyndrum ('the house on the ridge'). The talk was illustrated by a large number of excellent slides from photographs taken by Doctor Dorran. Mr Rogerson proposed an enthusiastic vote of thanks. On Tuesday 7th. January 2003, members of the Society enjoyed a well researched and fascinating address on 'Laughter in Pulpit, Parish and Pew - Humorous sides from Highland Church History', by Rev. Dr. Roddy Macleod of Furnace. A cleverly crafted lecture which painlessly, and with much humour, enlightened members on a number of aspects of Highland church history, and provided them with a highly entertaining evening. 'When we think of the Church in the Highlands of Scotland in the nineteenth century' he asked, `I wonder what colour comes to mind'? 'I suspect black would be the colour that best describes the life of the Church in that century. Clergy dressed in black. Worshippers in black, with solemn, grave faces, making for the church on the Sabbath, itself a rather dark day, full of negative regulations and prohibitions.' 'The slow mournful singing of the metrical psalms, long dreich prayers, and even longer, even dreicher sermons.' But Dr MacLeod argued that if we look beneath the surface, there is a lot of wit and humour in the life of the Church in the Highlands. Ministers could in fact be quite humorous. Dr. MacLeod proved that by recounting a number of anecdotes. John MacDonald of Ferintosh was once crossing on a ferry with a fellow minister. A farmer who had been celebrating at the cattle fair approached the other minister and asked if he would baptise his sheepdog. The minister looked appalled at the irreverent suggestion. But John MacDonald said to his minister friend he would deal with the matter, then turned to the farmer and asked him to lift the dog in his arms. Then he asked the question usually asked before baptism at the time. Do you admit that you are the father of this child? The drunken farmer got such a shock he threw the poor dog into the sea and it swam to the shore. In one Highland village, the minister and the doctor had both set their hearts on winning the same girls affections. The minister had to go away for some considerable time, and reckoned the doctor would make the most of his unfair advantage. However, he sent the gift of a crate of apples from the South to the girl. Recognising from whom the gift had to come, someone at the station attached a large note to the crate. It read: 'An apple a day keeps the doctor away!' Among the tales was one calculated to delight the citizens of Inveraray. The Reverend Alexander Campbell of Portree was conducting a service at which Lord MacDonald was present. Afterwards, Lord MacDonald expressed disappointment that Mr. Campbell had not referred to him in his prayers by name. 'Ah, but I did,' relied Mr Campbell, ' I included you among the universality of sinners! It's good to know that in a time when disputes within Presbyterian Churches in Scotland caused much acrimony, and when many dark events such as evictions, emigration, poverty and disease had to be faced and coped with by ordinary people, incidents occurred which could bring a glimmer of humour to life and lift the spirits, at least for a little. Members are indebted the Rev. Dr. Roddy MacLeod for a most enjoyable evening. 2002-2003 The Fascinating topic of the Lordship of the Isles was discussed at a November 2002 meeting of the Society. From the 12th century until the latter part of the 15th century the Lord of the Isles used the island of Islay as their headquarters. At the height of its power the lordship was more like a maritime kingdom and its power was such that lords dealt with, on equal terms, the Kings of Norway, Scotland and England. It was inevitable, from a strategic point of view, that Islay should have been chosen to control an area stretching from Inverness down to the Isle of Man and also including parts of Northern Ireland. But why Finlaggan was chosen as the actual site for the council and cultural centre was only one of the very interesting points covered when Dr David Caldwell from the National Museum of Scotland addressed a capacity audience. For the last 13 years a team of archaeologists and helpers led by Dr Caldwell have been excavating on the two islands that make up the site, as well on some of the surrounding land. They have found evidence of occupation over a very long period of time. Our bronze age ancestors occupied the site and remains of a monastery - possible from Columba's time - have also been found. On the land surrounding the islands there is evidence of many medieval sheilings as well as large numbers of lime kilns. Lead and silver mining was also carried out. On the islands themselves there is ample evidence to show that a substantial fortress, council chamber and great hall took up most of the available ground. The great hall had dimensions on a par with the great hall of Linlithgow Palace and it had a sprung timber floor! Over hundreds of years annual councils were held in Finlaggan and an inland site may possibly have been chosen deliberately as the warlike associates and allies of the successors of Somerled would have had to leave many of their followers to watch over the galleys and birlins on the beaches of Islay, thereby limiting the numbers at the council. Excavation seems to indicate that after the business of the council was completed the delegates indulged in the usual Celtic pastime of feasting and drinking (there is evidence of Boar's heads and French claret), poetry and song. There is no doubt that the MacDonald chiefs had sophisticated tastes. But all centres of power eventually collapse. In 1493 James IV decided that he had had enough of what had become a decadent and declining empire. He persuaded MacDonald's kinsman, MacIain of Ardnamurchan, to attack and destroy Finlaggan. Lord John of the Isles was taken to Edinburgh and hanged, and all the buildings on both islands were systematically raised to the ground. The job was done so thoroughly that there is now hardly any visible sign of what had been the last centrer of the of Gaeldom power. YEAR 2001-2002 Inveraray at War On 5th March 2002 the speaker was Mr Jim Jepson, formerly Curator of the Combined Operations Museum in Inveraray, regrettably closed now since 1999, and now organiser of the Combines Operations Association. This body, with a small but worldwide membership, exists both to preserve the exhibits and records of the museum and to safeguard the memory of an important aspect of the Allied efforts in the Second World War, especially as regards its work in Loch Fyne. The Inveraray area was the site of No. 1 Combined Operations Training Centre, set up in 1940 to test equipment and to train troups for combined assault forces. It was unusual in dealing with Army, Navy and Air Force together, and with both British and all other allied forces. There were several camps in and around the town, while the naval base, HMS Quebec, was located where the caravan site is now. Headquarters were in the Loch Fyne Hotel. A cinema, NAAFI (Navy, Army and Air Forces Institute) and military hospital were all established. Approximately 250,000 troops passed through the Training Centre in its six years of active life. The heads of Loch Fyne and Loch Shira were full of ships, from large troop carriers to small landing craft. Training took place on the loch and on the various beaches around the loch. Live ammunition was regularly used, which was one source of unfortunately frequent casualties. Another was men being crushed between vessels as they went ashore. Very few of the fatalities are buried locally, most presumably having been returned to their homes. Troops trained at Inveraray took part in all the major seaborne invasions of the War: Operation Torch, the invasion of North Africa in 1942 to link with the 8th Army; the Sicily landings in 1943; and of course Operation Overlord, the D Day invasions of Normandy in 1944. In addition various Commando units passed through; one little known fact is one section of No 10 InterAllied Commando consisted of German exiles, given false British identities in case of capture. As well as the history, illustrated photographs and diagrams, Mr Jepson gave some interesting human interest stories of well known people who served at Inveraray, such as Alec McGuinness, James Robertson Justice, and the hangman Peirpoint; of murders at the centre and of rowdy off-duty behaviour - leading in some instances to the use of Inveraray Jail. The vote of thanks was proposed by McAlistair Watson who contributed some personal reminiscences of various landing operations. Bringing History alive in Inveraray At the February 2002 meeting of the Society this time held in the school, Mrs Anne Paterson, the Head Teacher, agreed to the society arranging with teaching staff to have pupils act some of the historic features of the town's past. The pupils of primary six and seven chose shinty as their subject and the second subject was the visit of Sir Winston Churchill to Inveraray in 1940. This required the close co-operation of two society members - Mrs Rae MacGregor, the local historian, and the town's minister, Rev Brian Wilkinson - with a member of the teaching staff. In Mrs Fiona Hamilton they found the ideal person - the teacher for primary six and seven. She had the difficult task of maintaining the youngsters' interest whilst honing their stagecraft for the evening. Her hard work paid off. Members were rewarded with a pleasing performance, without those embarrassing gaps, which so readily occur when youngsters are involved. The school amplifier system was an asset, as the young voices tended to be thin. The pupils handled the microphone with the easy expertise of their icons - the pop stars! The shinty club members also collaborated by lending memorabilia and trophies for display - the Inveraray club won three trophies in the space of four weeks recently. They also helped the pupils by telling them some past history and the youngsters delighted in recounting this. They learned that the Inveraray team was initially formed in 1877, and it was the first club to draw up rules for the game. This was somewhat surprising when we were told the game was 600 years old, this evidence coming from a carving on a 15th century grave stone. The team took their yellow and black colours from those of the house of Argyll - this in recognition of the interest in the team taken by Lord Archie Campbell. The local shinty ground is still the Winterton Park, which is very close to Inveraray Castle. The Inveraray school team has also had its bundle of success recently, winning the South of Scotland cup for the first time. This must say something for the quality of training they receive. The present day young shinty enthusiasts sang a good many verses of the team song, 'The Yellow and the Black', with Mrs Jean McGlashan on the piano. There is now an enthusiastic shinty team for the ladies. Wartime meeting in Inveraray The wartime meeting of Sir Winston Churchill and the Provost of Inveraray (MrAlex MacIntyre) was enacted. 'Sir Winston' and 'Provost MacIntyre' were each a bit short in stature, but probably neater in waistline, than their true counterparts. However, there was no difficulty in identifying their famous predeccesors - one boy held a fat 'cigar' and the other wore a chain of office. And what meeting does the cup that cheers not enrich? The faithful May Kennedy was on hand to see to that welcome need. Thus ended a happy meeting of school and residents - a junior version, I suppose, of 'town and gown'. The western coastal trade during the 19th century At the first meeting of the 2002 on Tuesday January 8, the speaker was Dr Gordon Jackson. Formerly of the Department of Economic History at Strathclyde University, Glasgow, Dr Jackson now lives in Lochgair and the subject of his talk was the western coastal trade of the 19th century. The speaker stressed the importance to Argyll of shipping for trade and hence economic development. All the towns were ports and, although there was little direct foreign trade, shipping was essential to channel exports of fish, kelp and cattle to Glasgow and to convey goods and people internally. Until the advent of steamboats, there were no large shipowners, the vessels were frequently unseaworthy and wrecks were common. Steam brought greater organisation with vessels (much more expensive than before) owned by companies. New piers were built, ships operated to a timetable, and crews were better trained. The vote of thanks was proposed by Mr John Moore. Strathlachlan Families At the December 4th 2001 meeting the speaker was Dr Alistair MacFadyen who spoke on Strathlachlan families. Dr MacFadyen's roots are in the area, although he himself was born and bred in North Cumberland and his professional life was spent as a lecturer in history at Jordanhill College of Education in Glasgow. In retirement he has returned to the family home and developed his interest in it, and especially in the village of Newton. Dr MacFadyen showed a large number of fascinating slides, beginning with various buildings: the old Castle Lachlan (dating back to the thirteenth century, though much modified later); the new castle (built at the end of the eighteenth century, and extended through the nineteenth and twentieth centuries); the parish church of 1792; and the surviving remains of its predecessor, the burial aisle in the churchyard. Both the aisle and the old castle are now in a poor state of repair, indeed are becoming dangerous. The very active Clan Lachlan Association are engaged in fund-raising with a view to stabilising both. The chiefs of the clan are recorded in Strathlachlan from about 1290, the present one being the 25th. Donald, the 19th chief, was a prosperous advocate in Edinburgh, and to him are due the new castle and church, as well as the new planned village of Newtown. Tenants were encouraged to combine agriculture with fishing, and Lord Selkirk, in his Observations on the State of the Highlands (1805) regarded it as the model for the future. Fishing continued to be important until the early twentieth century. After a new road was built in the 1890s, tourism began to develop. This trend accelerated after 1942, when on the death of the 23rd chief the houses were sold, initially to the tenants. Now approximately half are holiday homes. The large audience responded to Dr MacFadyen's enthusiasm for his subject, with a vote of thanks proposed by Colin Stevenson. An Irish Adventure The first meeting of the 2001-2002 session of the Society was held on Tuesday October 2. The speaker was Dr Fiona Watson of Stirling University, who returned to the society for the third time. Using her current research on Scottish woodland history, in collaboration with Professor Christopher Smout, she described to a large audience a little-known chapter of woodland management in North Argyll. In 1721 a Dublin tanner, Roger Murphy, contracted with the Earl of Breadalbane and other landowners to extract and sell timber. In the following years he was joined by other Irishmen, notably Captain Arthur Galbraith. They acquired a lasting reputation for poor management resulting in devastation of woods; however, I? Watson questioned whether this was wholly justified. The landowners failed to be sufficiently specific in their requirements and especially to provide adequate oversight of the operations. Some of the problems of over-grazing and regeneration pre-dated the appearance of the Irish. In addition, the usual difficulty caused by distance from markets and the recurrent debts of the operators contributed to lack of success. However, it seems that little long-term damage was done to the woods despite the contemporary fears.